What are my options for fixing this chewed up drip irrigation setup?

Post by Danny D.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403753/img/13403753.jpg
So I figured I'd replace it with something better. But what?
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403755/img/13403755.jpg
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403754/img/13403754.jpg
I've never worked on drip irrigation before, so I picked up
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403764/img/13403764.jpg
At Home Depot, the guy told me that it's normal for the drip lines
to simply push in, but this end seems to be really really stuck.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403769/img/13403769.jpg
Would you suggest I simply cut the elbow off and start fresh
by putting a garden-hose connection on a T fitting?
Note: The plants are tomatoes, which are just now sprouting,
so it has to be a gentle irrigation. I think a soaker hose may
be too heavy - but I'm not sure what my options are.

I am assuming that you only have a modest garden and you are on domestic
water mains.

The normal way of doing polypipe small scale irrigation is to have one
fitting connecting the black poly to either a standard garden hose or an
outside hose cock. From there everything is done in poly with push (bayonet
fittings) unless larger than 25mm (1") when you use fittings with a nut.
You run to your garden bed in 3/4" (19mm) or 1/2" (12mm) depending on the
length of run and flow required. Generally you would run this down one side
of the bed or both if it is wide. You then push either sprayers or
drippers into that line.

The thin tubes (about 1/4", 6mm) you have are risers to allow the main line
to be buried underground or under mulch, they are not really nesessary
otherwise but can off course be used to take a dripper or sprayer away from
the main pipe if you like. If using sprayers on the end of risers you can
have a problem with keeping the jet at the right direction because the riser
will bend and move all over the place unless fixed to a solid object. If
you push your jets straight into the pipe you don't have that issue because
it is more rigid. Drippers waste less water than sprayers but you need more
of them as they don't have much spread. Especially in sandy soil the water
from drippers goes down not outwards. It is usual to have a filter at the
start of the system to reduce the incidence of blocked jets.

Some specifics about your setup:

- It is usual to terminate an end by folding it over and fastening it
somehow (eg with wire), fancy fittings are not required, don't worry.

- With no scale I cannot tell for sure if you have 1/2" or 3/4", did you
measure it?

- The junction between the white supply line and black poly is unusual,
where the white tube first steps down it has been glued (the blue stuff is
glue) I cannot tell about where the black goes into the green tube, if you
cannot twist it at all or if you see a blue line round it then it has
probably been glued too. The fact that it needed to be stepped down twice
says to me either the underground pipe is much wider than required or you
have 1/2" poly coming out instead of 3/4", or both.

- You seem to have this white tube buried in a number of places, is it all
connected? To what? I don't know the retail prices where you are but here
that kind of tube and the fittings for it are much more expensive than black
poly and its fittings. I would be heading in the direction of doing most of
what you need above ground in black poly. Except for garden forks and lawn
mowers it is quite durable. I suspect you will not need very many of the
box of fittings. Maybe you can get a refund.

- Sprayers or drippers will both be gentle enough for seedlings.

I cannot advise on the best refurbishment as I don't know how big your
garden is or where the white supply line runs in relation to it. I suggest
you stop buying stuff and sit down and plan what you want to do and then buy
what you need. The manufacturers and vendors of black poly and fittings
often have info and plans on the web. Here is one from a TV garden show:

http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Making-and-Mending/Do-It-Yourself-Irrigation/2194

David

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:28:41 UTC

Post by David Hare-Scott
I am assuming that you only have a modest garden and you
are on domestic water mains.

The garden doesn't even qualify as modest.

It's about 10 feet long, by about 4 feet wide.

And, it's connected to well water, at a pressure of about
80 psi.

Even the tomato plants don't qualify as modest (yet):
Loading Image...

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:43:53 UTC

Post by David Hare-Scott
- With no scale I cannot tell for sure if you have 1/2" or 3/4",
did you measure it?

Hi David,

I'm sorry. I should have provided more detail.

I just measured the plumbing.

1. The white PVC appears to be 1" in OD so I'd say it's 3/4" pipe.
Loading Image...

2. The black plastic appears to be 3/4" in OD.
Loading Image...

3. The "runners?" appear to be 1/4" or even less in OD.
Loading Image...

Of course, now it's all gone, so, I'm actually at a *starting point*
of this!

Loading Image...

Oren

2013-06-26 00:39:07 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 22:43:53 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
3. The "runners?" appear to be 1/4" or even less in OD.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410571/img/13410571.jpg

I follow the notion to use fewer 1/4" tubes in the 1/2" poly. The
more holes you pierce in the 1/2" adds to potential leaks. It cuts
water flow a bit, but the tube drip heads can be adjusted to
compensate. Or run it longer on the timer.

The 1/4" can be "teed off" the main drip line with barbed fittings.
Easier to fix than a 1/2" pipe with 10 holes in it.

I put in my front yard (desert) a manifold. Tubes run from it.

<Loading Image...

>

Each line can be adjusted for water flow.

Given your small space I bet the manifold (4 port) would be best.

I forget if the manifold is threaded into an old sprinkler head tee.
You get the idea.

Oren

2013-06-26 00:50:41 UTC

Post by Oren
I put in my front yard (desert) a manifold. Tubes run from it.
<http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HoeIZg0eL.jpg>

BTW. If you cut that PVC elbow / insert fitting off at the pipe (save
as much pipe as you can) then use an 8 port manifold; would give you
8 drip lines in the small space. Make the runs as long as you like.

Look in a real local garden / nursery center and how it fits the pipe.

Danny D.

2013-06-26 05:06:19 UTC

Post by Oren
use an 8 port manifold

I had not even thought of that, but it has the advantage that
the drip lines would all radiate from the same point, so the
water flow should be even, right?

Oren

2013-06-26 13:36:40 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 05:06:19 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
use an 8 port manifold

I had not even thought of that, but it has the advantage that
the drip lines would all radiate from the same point, so the
water flow should be even, right?

Yes you can adjust the drip head or adjust the flow at the manifold.

I have large tress )Palm and African Sumac) and Foxtail grass.

Sample:

<Loading Image...

Danny D.

2013-06-26 05:05:14 UTC

Post by Oren
Easier to fix than a 1/2" pipe with 10 holes in it.

I was wondering about that.

Why doesn't anyone just take a length of 3/4" PVC
and drill a few holes in it?

Seems to me the cheapest and strongest method.

I guess the only downside is you need a drill press
to make it efficient.

Oren

2013-06-26 13:06:18 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 05:05:14 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
Easier to fix than a 1/2" pipe with 10 holes in it.

I was wondering about that.
Why doesn't anyone just take a length of 3/4" PVC
and drill a few holes in it?
Seems to me the cheapest and strongest method.
I guess the only downside is you need a drill press
to make it efficient.

Ever see the outdoor misters? Same idea but the mister heads clog from
hard water minerals. For a lawn irrigation system, PVC is to rigid for
a drip line system.

<Loading Image...

Danny D.

2013-06-26 13:55:21 UTC

Post by Oren
For a lawn irrigation system, PVC is to rigid for
a drip line system.
<http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/40000464/images/10112w_600.jpg>

Ah. Thanks. I had never seen those before.
My water is somewhat hard (I think it's 14 ppm Calcium.)
Certainly the coffee pot gets that white film in just a week (removed with vinegar).

Oren

2013-06-26 14:53:54 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:55:21 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
For a lawn irrigation system, PVC is to rigid for
a drip line system.
<http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/40000464/images/10112w_600.jpg>

Ah. Thanks. I had never seen those before.
My water is somewhat hard (I think it's 14 ppm Calcium.)
Certainly the coffee pot gets that white film in just a week (removed with vinegar).

Mister systems are used in the desert. Homes and restaurants with
patio dining areas.

Sample:

<Loading Image...

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:55:49 UTC

Post by David Hare-Scott
I cannot advise on the best refurbishment as I don't know how big your
garden is or where the white supply line runs in relation to it.

The garden has two duplicate rectangles of about 10 feet by 4 feet,
both of which now have scattered tomato seed planted about a week ago.

It never rains here in California, at least until December or January,
and the garden gets a good mix of sun and shade during the day, as it's
overshadowed by some trees on the east but not on the south and west.

Each of the two plots has a single 3/4" elbow feeding it, one of which
already has a NPT-to-GardenHose Thread male end on it. The other plot
now has an open compression fitting to 3/4" poly hose (which needs to
be plugged or replaced).

Both elbows are on the same irrigation zone, and there is a whoppingly
huge 80psi of water pressure to deal with.

Danny D.

2013-06-25 23:02:10 UTC

I suggest you stop buying stuff and sit down and plan what
you want to do and then buy what you need.

This sounds reasonable.

Part of the problem is that the wife took over my kitchen-compost spot,
so now, she "owns" this garden (and she has forbidden me to enter
it because she feels I end up ruining everything I touch).

At the moment, I've flooded her tomatoes, and, I've tried to save
all the tiny 6-inch oaks which, in the end, infuriated her because
that meant I ended up digging up more of her young tomatoes.

I've never done "drip" irrigation, so, I'm not sure what's the
*right* way to irrigate her tomatoes (and present it as a surprise
to her, all done and working).

I *think* my options are:
a. Garden hose soaker
b. Poly irrigation
c. A sprinkler pop-up head

Danny D.

2013-06-25 23:28:41 UTC

Post by Danny D.
At the moment, I've flooded her tomatoes, and, I've tried to save
all the tiny 6-inch oaks which, in the end, infuriated her because
that meant I ended up digging up more of her young tomatoes.

Here are the oaks which will be replanted somewhere:

Loading Image...

I've never re-planted an oak before, but what I plan on doing is
picking a spot on the hillside where the roots and crown won't
be bothersome - and seeing if they can grow on their own.

Oren

2013-06-26 01:21:17 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:28:41 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410683/img/13410683.jpg
I've never re-planted an oak before, but what I plan on doing is
picking a spot on the hillside where the roots and crown won't
be bothersome - and seeing if they can grow on their own.

Water them in good at planting ( soak well ). Send the kids out now
and then with a bucket of water to soak the oaks (rattlesnakes on the
hill / ravine - remember).

Do not drown them in early stages.

Oren

2013-06-26 01:08:59 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:02:10 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

I suggest you stop buying stuff and sit down and plan what
you want to do and then buy what you need.

Just wait until we get into "trade sizes" for O-rings. It gets better
or worse, I forget.

Post by Danny D.
This sounds reasonable.
Part of the problem is that the wife took over my kitchen-compost spot,
so now, she "owns" this garden (and she has forbidden me to enter
it because she feels I end up ruining everything I touch).
At the moment, I've flooded her tomatoes, and, I've tried to save
all the tiny 6-inch oaks which, in the end, infuriated her because
that meant I ended up digging up more of her young tomatoes.
I've never done "drip" irrigation, so, I'm not sure what's the
*right* way to irrigate her tomatoes (and present it as a surprise
to her, all done and working).
a. Garden hose soaker
b. Poly irrigation
c. A sprinkler pop-up head

Did I ever mention to you that you need a "permission slip"?

Get off of her lawn :)

Danny D.

2013-06-26 05:08:26 UTC

Post by Oren
Did I ever mention to you that you need a "permission slip"?

She has threatened to lock the gate to the tomato garden!

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 16:29:00 UTC

I suggest you stop buying stuff and sit down and plan what
you want to do and then buy what you need.

This sounds reasonable.
Part of the problem is that the wife took over my kitchen-compost
spot, so now, she "owns" this garden (and she has forbidden me to
enter
it because she feels I end up ruining everything I touch).
At the moment, I've flooded her tomatoes, and, I've tried to save
all the tiny 6-inch oaks which, in the end, infuriated her because
that meant I ended up digging up more of her young tomatoes.
I've never done "drip" irrigation, so, I'm not sure what's the
*right* way to irrigate her tomatoes (and present it as a surprise
to her, all done and working).
a. Garden hose soaker
b. Poly irrigation
c. A sprinkler pop-up head

For tomatoes I've always liked using these sprinklers because they are
adjustable:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100138920?productId=100138920&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&PID=1609763&cm_mmc=CJ%2d%5f%2d1609763%2d%5f%2d10368321&SID=tfc%5f%2d%5f10%5f11%5f130626%5ffed98ed4c0733b80201369c68b97f30a%3a0000&AID=10368321&cj=true

or

http://tinyurl.com/p7nnrcr

It's attached to a 1/4 inch water tubing that is fed via the 1/2 inch main
line tubing. The heads on it turn to allow more or less water to drip or
sprinkle. I use one per bit planter, or 1 between 2 tomato plants.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

The Daring Dufas

2013-06-26 18:21:16 UTC

I suggest you stop buying stuff and sit down and plan what
you want to do and then buy what you need.

This sounds reasonable.
Part of the problem is that the wife took over my kitchen-compost
spot, so now, she "owns" this garden (and she has forbidden me to
enter
it because she feels I end up ruining everything I touch).
At the moment, I've flooded her tomatoes, and, I've tried to save
all the tiny 6-inch oaks which, in the end, infuriated her because
that meant I ended up digging up more of her young tomatoes.
I've never done "drip" irrigation, so, I'm not sure what's the
*right* way to irrigate her tomatoes (and present it as a surprise
to her, all done and working).
a. Garden hose soaker
b. Poly irrigation
c. A sprinkler pop-up head

For tomatoes I've always liked using these sprinklers because they are
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100138920?productId=100138920&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&PID=1609763&cm_mmc=CJ%2d%5f%2d1609763%2d%5f%2d10368321&SID=tfc%5f%2d%5f10%5f11%5f130626%5ffed98ed4c0733b80201369c68b97f30a%3a0000&AID=10368321&cj=true
or
http://tinyurl.com/p7nnrcr
It's attached to a 1/4 inch water tubing that is fed via the 1/2 inch main
line tubing. The heads on it turn to allow more or less water to drip or
sprinkle. I use one per bit planter, or 1 between 2 tomato plants.

Hey, you could kill vampires with one of those and wash the ashes away
at the same time. ^_^

TDD

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 19:55:39 UTC

Post by The Daring Dufas

I suggest you stop buying stuff and sit down and plan what
you want to do and then buy what you need.

This sounds reasonable.
Part of the problem is that the wife took over my kitchen-compost
spot, so now, she "owns" this garden (and she has forbidden me to
enter
it because she feels I end up ruining everything I touch).
At the moment, I've flooded her tomatoes, and, I've tried to save
all the tiny 6-inch oaks which, in the end, infuriated her because
that meant I ended up digging up more of her young tomatoes.
I've never done "drip" irrigation, so, I'm not sure what's the
*right* way to irrigate her tomatoes (and present it as a surprise
to her, all done and working).
a. Garden hose soaker
b. Poly irrigation
c. A sprinkler pop-up head

For tomatoes I've always liked using these sprinklers because they
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100138920?productId=100138920&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&PID=1609763&cm_mmc=CJ%2d%5f%2d1609763%2d%5f%2d10368321&SID=tfc%5f%2d%5f10%5f11%5f130626%5ffed98ed4c0733b80201369c68b97f30a%3a0000&AID=10368321&cj=true
or
http://tinyurl.com/p7nnrcr
It's attached to a 1/4 inch water tubing that is fed via the 1/2
inch main line tubing. The heads on it turn to allow more or less
water to drip or sprinkle. I use one per bit planter, or 1 between
2 tomato plants.

Hey, you could kill vampires with one of those and wash the ashes away
at the same time. ^_^
TDD

... and fertilize your tomatoes with the same ashes, too!

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-25 23:10:22 UTC

Post by David Hare-Scott
The fact that it needed to be stepped down twice
says to me either the underground pipe is much wider than required or you
have 1/2" poly coming out instead of 3/4", or both.

I *think* I have 3/4" PVC feeding the poly:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410565/img/13410565.jpg

What would you suggest I connect to this elbow?
Loading Image...

I was *thinking* of cutting off the elbow, and connecting a "T",
and then from the T, screwing on *two* garden hose male threads
(I figure if one is good, two must be better).

PS: I'm partial to garden hose connections because I can remove
them easily when I get my kitchen-scrap compost location back
in the winter.

Oren

2013-06-26 02:07:18 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:10:22 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
PS: I'm partial to garden hose connections because I can remove
them easily.......

So can the wife :-\

Danny D.

2013-06-26 05:10:19 UTC

i'd suggest using poly, which is very cheap and easily changed.
have you strewn the seeds, or planted in rows?

She "strew" them (strowed them?), so they're all scattered about.

(She doesn't have a whole lotta' patience like I do.)

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 16:30:26 UTC

Post by David Hare-Scott
The fact that it needed to be stepped down twice
says to me either the underground pipe is much wider than required
or you have 1/2" poly coming out instead of 3/4", or both.

http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410565/img/13410565.jpg
What would you suggest I connect to this elbow?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410592/img/13410592.jpg
I was *thinking* of cutting off the elbow, and connecting a "T",
and then from the T, screwing on *two* garden hose male threads
(I figure if one is good, two must be better).
PS: I'm partial to garden hose connections because I can remove
them easily when I get my kitchen-scrap compost location back
in the winter.

If I were you I'd connect a fitting that had a shut off valve there, and
then connect your tubing to the shut-off valve. :D

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-26 17:31:55 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
I'd connect a fitting that had a shut off valve

Ah, a shut-off valve makes a lot of sense!

I'll stop by the hardware store and buy a couple (one for each nursery).

Do you think I can just pull out the green water restrictor
with pliers and shove the slip-fit shutoff valve onto the existing
white pipe coming out of the elbow?

Oren

2013-06-26 17:56:30 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 17:31:55 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
Do you think I can just pull out the green water restrictor
with pliers and shove the slip-fit shutoff valve onto the existing
white pipe coming out of the elbow?

I highly doubt that you can. Remember how hard you pulled to remove
the poly from the insert? The insert is already a reduced size so not
likely you will find a ball valve in that size.

I'd cut off the elbow (save as much pipe as possible).

Then you will need:

- new 3/4 elbow

- PVC ball valve (like on your pool pump)

- a new insert for the poly

- small section of pipe (elbow to ball valve)

Repeat on the other line in the other garden section.

Unless I missed something...

Danny D.

2013-06-26 23:09:37 UTC

Post by Oren
The insert is already a reduced size so not
likely you will find a ball valve in that size.
I'd cut off the elbow (save as much pipe as possible).

I was afraid of that. Thanks for the warning.

I'll try this procedure:

a. I'll try to pull the green part out of the 3/4" PVC pipe
b. If that fails, I'll cut the elbow off
and replumb with a new PVC coupling, elbow, & valve
c. Then I'll add the pipe-to-hose thread so it can be disconnected
when not in use (like when it's my compost heap again!)

Oren

2013-06-27 00:10:31 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 23:09:37 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
The insert is already a reduced size so not
likely you will find a ball valve in that size.
I'd cut off the elbow (save as much pipe as possible).

I was afraid of that. Thanks for the warning.
a. I'll try to pull the green part out of the 3/4" PVC pipe
b. If that fails, I'll cut the elbow off
and replumb with a new PVC coupling, elbow, & valve
c. Then I'll add the pipe-to-hose thread so it can be disconnected
when not in use (like when it's my compost heap again!)

If you get permission to do it.

I'm still in favor of the 8 port manifold. Mine is at surface level
and has been in there for ~ 8 years. Not a single problem.

Danny D.

2013-06-27 03:43:41 UTC

Post by Danny D.
a. I'll try to pull the green part out of the 3/4" PVC pipe

You guys were right.

That green stuff is there to stay.
Loading Image...

I'll probably cut off the elbow and start fresh, as there's
no sense in restricting the water flow from the start.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 18:08:03 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
I'd connect a fitting that had a shut off valve

Ah, a shut-off valve makes a lot of sense!
I'll stop by the hardware store and buy a couple (one for each
nursery).
Do you think I can just pull out the green water restrictor
with pliers and shove the slip-fit shutoff valve onto the existing
white pipe coming out of the elbow?

I'm not sure .. you might have luck getting that green pc out if the glue
wants to let go, then again, you might end up breaking the elbow fitting
it's attached to, which would create a bigger headache to fix.

If it were me, I would just insert a new section of 1/2 inch tubing
(Loading Image...

)
into the existing green fitting there .. maybe a foot or so long, and buy
fittings where I could attach a shut off valve (here is one kind:
Loading Image...

/
here is another:
Loading Image...

to the 1/2 inch tubing. You can get the shut off valve that attaches
directly to the 1/2" tubing, or add fittings of your choice so that you can
Y off in another direction, use T fittings at that point and add 1/2"
tubing in another direction, and go from there.

So it would look like this ... the elbow > green fitting>1/2" tubing (about
a foot long)>shut off valve> longer pc of 1/2" tubing on the other side of
the shut off valve. This pc of tubing acts as a main water line so you want
it long so you can lay it around where your garden is, then you can run 1/4"
dripper tubing from your main line. You can use the shut off valve as a
pressure regulator, too, by simply not turning it on all the way which will
reduce how much water goes through your drippers, plus you can use
adjustable sprinklers to water just at ground level, or bigger sprinklers to
get larger areas. On my front yard set-up I even have a BIG sprinkler
attached to the system that waters my entire front grass, while the flower
bed sprinklers just water their rerspective plants, only.

Sorry for being so wordy .. just hope it helps. :)

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Oren

2013-06-26 20:02:25 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:08:03 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
http://www.dripirrigation.com/system/pgphotos/377/tdsphoto/Ball-valve-comp.png?1331253321)
to the 1/2 inch tubing. You can get the shut off valve that attaches
directly to the 1/2" tubing, or add fittings of your choice so that you can
Y off in another direction, use T fittings at that point and add 1/2"
tubing in another direction, and go from there.

Nice. First time I've seen this type of 1/2" poly valve.

(I need to get out more :-)

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 20:22:42 UTC

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:08:03 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
http://www.dripirrigation.com/system/pgphotos/377/tdsphoto/Ball-valve-comp.png?1331253321)
to the 1/2 inch tubing. You can get the shut off valve that attaches
directly to the 1/2" tubing, or add fittings of your choice so that
you can Y off in another direction, use T fittings at that point
and add 1/2" tubing in another direction, and go from there.

Nice. First time I've seen this type of 1/2" poly valve.
(I need to get out more :-)

haaha well .. you can do just about anything you want to do with these drip
irrigation parts.

hey, if I can do it, ANYONE can do it! :-)

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Oren

2013-06-26 20:41:12 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 15:22:42 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:08:03 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
http://www.dripirrigation.com/system/pgphotos/377/tdsphoto/Ball-valve-comp.png?1331253321)
to the 1/2 inch tubing. You can get the shut off valve that attaches
directly to the 1/2" tubing, or add fittings of your choice so that
you can Y off in another direction, use T fittings at that point
and add 1/2" tubing in another direction, and go from there.

Nice. First time I've seen this type of 1/2" poly valve.
(I need to get out more :-)

haaha well .. you can do just about anything you want to do with these drip
irrigation parts.
hey, if I can do it, ANYONE can do it! :-)

I'll retract my prior advice to Danny. Your part is far better and
simpler. Does the same thing so he can shut of the line :)

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 21:04:34 UTC

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 15:22:42 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:08:03 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
http://www.dripirrigation.com/system/pgphotos/377/tdsphoto/Ball-valve-comp.png?1331253321)
to the 1/2 inch tubing. You can get the shut off valve that
attaches directly to the 1/2" tubing, or add fittings of your
choice so that you can Y off in another direction, use T fittings
at that point
and add 1/2" tubing in another direction, and go from there.

Nice. First time I've seen this type of 1/2" poly valve.
(I need to get out more :-)

haaha well .. you can do just about anything you want to do with
these drip irrigation parts.
hey, if I can do it, ANYONE can do it! :-)

I'll retract my prior advice to Danny. Your part is far better and
simpler. Does the same thing so he can shut of the line :)

Which part did you suggest? I got lost reading all the posts and skipped
through a lot of discussion part...

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Oren

2013-06-26 21:29:44 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 16:04:34 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 15:22:42 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:08:03 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
http://www.dripirrigation.com/system/pgphotos/377/tdsphoto/Ball-valve-comp.png?1331253321)
to the 1/2 inch tubing. You can get the shut off valve that
attaches directly to the 1/2" tubing, or add fittings of your
choice so that you can Y off in another direction, use T fittings
at that point
and add 1/2" tubing in another direction, and go from there.

Nice. First time I've seen this type of 1/2" poly valve.
(I need to get out more :-)

haaha well .. you can do just about anything you want to do with
these drip irrigation parts.
hey, if I can do it, ANYONE can do it! :-)

I'll retract my prior advice to Danny. Your part is far better and
simpler. Does the same thing so he can shut of the line :)

Which part did you suggest? I got lost reading all the posts and skipped
through a lot of discussion part...

3/4" ball valve, new elbow, couple small section of pipe, and new
insert. Point was I did not think Danny could pull the "green" portion
out of the insert. The insert in a smaller size and a ball valve may
not be a match.

Your solution makes it a simple task for a shut off.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 21:45:15 UTC

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 16:04:34 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 15:22:42 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:08:03 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
http://www.dripirrigation.com/system/pgphotos/377/tdsphoto/Ball-valve-comp.png?1331253321)
to the 1/2 inch tubing. You can get the shut off valve that
attaches directly to the 1/2" tubing, or add fittings of your
choice so that you can Y off in another direction, use T fittings
at that point
and add 1/2" tubing in another direction, and go from there.

Nice. First time I've seen this type of 1/2" poly valve.
(I need to get out more :-)

haaha well .. you can do just about anything you want to do with
these drip irrigation parts.
hey, if I can do it, ANYONE can do it! :-)

I'll retract my prior advice to Danny. Your part is far better and
simpler. Does the same thing so he can shut of the line :)

Which part did you suggest? I got lost reading all the posts and
skipped through a lot of discussion part...

3/4" ball valve, new elbow, couple small section of pipe, and new
insert. Point was I did not think Danny could pull the "green" portion
out of the insert. The insert in a smaller size and a ball valve may
not be a match.
Your solution makes it a simple task for a shut off.

I'm all about making it simple! hahaha!

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Oren

2013-06-27 00:46:37 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 16:45:15 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
Your solution makes it a simple task for a shut off.

I'm all about making it simple! hahaha!

<http://cheezburger.com/7603840768>

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-27 02:23:25 UTC

Post by Oren
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 16:45:15 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Oren
Your solution makes it a simple task for a shut off.

I'm all about making it simple! hahaha!

<http://cheezburger.com/7603840768>

oh THAT's cool! LOL

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-27 03:45:52 UTC

Post by Oren
Point was I did not think Danny could pull the "green" portion
out of the insert.

You were totally right; the green thing would not budge.
Loading Image...

They should make the garden hose nozzles out of that green stuff!

Oren

2013-06-27 03:53:26 UTC

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 03:45:52 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
Point was I did not think Danny could pull the "green" portion
out of the insert.

You were totally right; the green thing would not budge.

....bucket > huckleberries

Post by Danny D.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13419796/img/13419796.jpg
They should make the garden hose nozzles out of that green stuff!

As I previously stated, I've never seen one of these poly compression
fittings fail in normal use.

Danny D.

2013-06-27 04:26:21 UTC

Post by Oren
As I previously stated, I've never seen one of these poly compression
fittings fail in normal use.

I have a lot of that poly stuff and none of them are working.

I'm pretty sure they're busted and old, and in some cases the
sprinkler system isn't working.

Personally, I think the stuff is too fragile - but I don't have
any experience other than I do have a garden hose hooked to the
one feeding the Oleanders and the water only goes about 100 feet
or so, because the tubing is so badly cut up.

Anyway, maybe I shouldn't deprecate it so much, but I just think
it's too flimsy for my world. Of course, it would be a LOT more
work for me to bury pvc for a few hundred feet of the Oleanders,
so, I guess I should just hunker down and buy a roll of the
poly stuff and replace all the bad parts.

Oren

2013-06-27 05:42:04 UTC

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 04:26:21 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
I guess I should just hunker down and buy a roll of the
poly stuff and replace all the bad parts.

Do not try to patch pieces in. You'd be doing it forever. Wasting
money and time. When it starts getting leaks, in multiple areas, from
cracks and punctures -- replace the run. Save the drip heads and
barbed fittings. They can be used again.

Get a 100' or 500' (?) rolls and replace *long* runs.

Just sayin'

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-27 15:35:13 UTC

Post by Oren
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 04:26:21 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
I guess I should just hunker down and buy a roll of the
poly stuff and replace all the bad parts.

Do not try to patch pieces in. You'd be doing it forever. Wasting
money and time. When it starts getting leaks, in multiple areas, from
cracks and punctures -- replace the run. Save the drip heads and
barbed fittings. They can be used again.
Get a 100' or 500' (?) rolls and replace *long* runs.
Just sayin'

That sounds like a good plan! I'm too lazy when it's hot and will patch
everything unless it just won't work! LOL

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-27 17:14:31 UTC

Post by Oren
Get a 100' or 500' (?) rolls and replace *long* runs.

I'm too lazy when it's hot and will patch
everything unless it just won't work!

I don't like patching mainly because I won't understand how
it's set up.

Of course, I don't like digging up buried lines either ... so
that's why I have this 300' long run that hasn't been fixed yet.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-27 20:02:16 UTC

Post by Oren
Get a 100' or 500' (?) rolls and replace *long* runs.

I'm too lazy when it's hot and will patch
everything unless it just won't work!

I don't like patching mainly because I won't understand how
it's set up.
Of course, I don't like digging up buried lines either ... so
that's why I have this 300' long run that hasn't been fixed yet.

If you're starting over, just leave it buried and start it all new from the
source. :)

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Oren

2013-06-27 21:46:44 UTC

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 15:02:16 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Danny D.
Of course, I don't like digging up buried lines either ... so
that's why I have this 300' long run that hasn't been fixed yet.

If you're starting over, just leave it buried and start it all new from the
source. :)

If the lines are shallow pull the poly up by hand. It will take you
where you need to follow. Provided they are only a few inches deep.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-27 21:53:42 UTC

Post by Oren
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 15:02:16 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Danny D.
Of course, I don't like digging up buried lines either ... so
that's why I have this 300' long run that hasn't been fixed yet.

If you're starting over, just leave it buried and start it all new
from the source. :)

If the lines are shallow pull the poly up by hand. It will take you
where you need to follow. Provided they are only a few inches deep.

I've never deliberately buried any of my tubing because every fall the
leaves get used as mulch which eventually composts. I'm no expert at this
by far, either. Just learned to do it based on what I needed at the time
and what I could find to make it work.
I know there is one old dripper hose that got buried from mulch and roots
that I couldn't pull out if I paid the hulk to do it. LOL
I just cut that line off and ran new line that I could get to. I guess
that's a females solution, but I don't have the strength to pull and tug at
those things very well. They get the best of me.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-28 00:43:39 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
I just cut that line off and ran new line that I could get to.

That may be the simplest answer, but, I still need to tie (somehow)
to the irrigation valves.

BTW, my tubes look like they were chewed on by an animal.

Do they hold up to animal teeth?

We have lots of coyote, quail, bunnies, deer, bobcats, squirrels, mice, etc.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-28 01:11:15 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
I just cut that line off and ran new line that I could get to.

That may be the simplest answer, but, I still need to tie (somehow)
to the irrigation valves.
BTW, my tubes look like they were chewed on by an animal.
Do they hold up to animal teeth?
We have lots of coyote, quail, bunnies, deer, bobcats, squirrels, mice, etc.

I'm not really sure about that issue... I haven't had anything like that
happen with my set up yet.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-28 00:40:09 UTC

Post by Oren
If the lines are shallow pull the poly up by hand. It will take you
where you need to follow. Provided they are only a few inches deep.

I had done that, a while ago, and this is what had resulted:
Loading Image...

But, by digging perpendicular to the bushes, I was able to uncover
two lines, one big and one small, which only had one open chewed
up end. So I put a garden hose connection on them:
Loading Image...

It's a LOT of work to replace them, so, I am beginning to think
I will connect the bigger one to the irrigation valve which seems
to be feeding the missing end:
Loading Image...

For that, I'll need to patch a few holes in the existing tube
already connected to the irrigation line:
Loading Image...

So, how does this sound for the 'easiest' plan of action:

a) Take the existing 3/4" tubing which is already tied to the sprinkler
system and connect it to the 3/4" tubing that is under the oleander
canopy.

b) One by one, patch the leaks, starting at the first, and moving
onward as they show themselves.

c) Then, figure out why there is a 1/2" tubing, which must have connected
somehow to the irrigation system; but I don't know how yet.

Danny D.

2013-06-28 00:26:00 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
If you're starting over, just leave it buried and start it all
new from the source.

To follow through on your suggestion, I took a look by turning the
irrigation valve on, and this started spurting out of the tube end:
Loading Image...

There were only a few leaks, some of which look chewed, others holed:
Loading Image...

But, the drip attachment thing seemed to be working fine nonetheless:
Loading Image...

The problem is this 20 (or so) foot length couldn't possibly feed
the entire length of the oleander bushes:
Loading Image...

So I rooted about and found a 3/4" and a 1/2" broken tube under the
oleander canopy, so I put a garden hose connection onto each of those:
Loading Image...

An audible waterfall-like hiss came out of the larger tubing, so,
I was able to ascertain it was badly mauled only about 15 feet from
where the garden hose fed it:
Loading Image...

But, nothing came out of the smaller hose, that I could find:
Loading Image...

QUESTION:
Do you think animals chewed up these tubes?
(Are they susceptible to animals chewing on them?)
Loading Image...

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-28 01:08:14 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
If you're starting over, just leave it buried and start it all
new from the source.

Hi Natural, smoking-gun, girl,
I'm was pretty sure the 3/4" and 1/2" drip tubes along the entire
300 feet or so of oleander bushes used to be tied to the irrigation
system - and I do see a 3/4" hose going into the ground at an
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426649/img/13426649.jpg
To follow through on your suggestion, I took a look by turning the
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426653/img/13426653.jpg
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426658/img/13426658.jpg
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426659/img/13426659.jpg
The problem is this 20 (or so) foot length couldn't possibly feed
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426660/img/13426660.jpg
So I rooted about and found a 3/4" and a 1/2" broken tube under the
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426663/img/13426663.jpg
An audible waterfall-like hiss came out of the larger tubing, so,
I was able to ascertain it was badly mauled only about 15 feet from
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426667/img/13426667.jpg
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426669/img/13426669.jpg
Do you think animals chewed up these tubes?
(Are they susceptible to animals chewing on them?)
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426670/img/13426670.jpg

Those leaks look like where 1/4" tubing might have been connected at one
time and broke off. If it were "me", I'd just cut out the bad section
and insert a repair pc... I'm lazy.. I don't want to replace the entire
thing if I don't have to. If the hole is a circle, you might could just
plug it with hole plugs you can buy, too.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Oren

2013-06-27 17:52:59 UTC

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 10:35:13 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
That sounds like a good plan! I'm too lazy when it's hot and will patch
everything unless it just won't work! LOL

I developed an allergy to work. I break out in hives :)

Hot with plenty of sunshine for this week's forecast.

Today 108°F
Fr 114°F
Sat 115°F
Sun 117°F
Mon 116°F
Tue 116°F
Wed 109°F

(Mojave Desert)

chaniarts

2013-06-27 19:05:47 UTC

Post by Oren
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 04:26:21 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
I guess I should just hunker down and buy a roll of the
poly stuff and replace all the bad parts.

Do not try to patch pieces in. You'd be doing it forever. Wasting
money and time. When it starts getting leaks, in multiple areas, from
cracks and punctures -- replace the run. Save the drip heads and
barbed fittings. They can be used again.
Get a 100' or 500' (?) rolls and replace *long* runs.
Just sayin'

and you have to use compression pieces to join the patches, and they're
more expensive than running new line if you have lots of leaks.

Danny D.

2013-06-28 00:47:42 UTC

Post by chaniarts
and you have to use compression pieces to join the patches, and they're
more expensive than running new line if you have lots of leaks.

Do you think electrical tape will stick long enough to run a test of
the entire line (it might take a couple of days to test the whole line).

NOTE: Substitute "img" where it says "640" for a larger image.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-28 01:13:23 UTC

Post by chaniarts
and you have to use compression pieces to join the patches, and they're
more expensive than running new line if you have lots of leaks.

Interesting.
I have to fix about 300 feet of tubing, one of which is 3/4" and the
other, which seems to be parallel to it, is 1/2" (God knows why).
Given that all the pressure is lost at the first holes, I was thinking
of temporarily taping up the holes, one by one, so that I could get an
assessment as to how many holes there were.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13426714/640/13426714.jpg
Do you think electrical tape will stick long enough to run a test of
the entire line (it might take a couple of days to test the whole line).
NOTE: Substitute "img" where it says "640" for a larger image.

funny you should ask that.. I've tried it before .. it didn't really
work very well and it always leaked, so then I had to mess with ripping
off wet tape.. I tried electrical and duct tape. The water pressure is
just too strong, I think.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-26 23:04:41 UTC

You can get the shut off valve that attaches directly to the 1/2" tubing,

That is an option.

Something, I don't know what, seems to me that I'd prefer the permanence
of the PVC shutoff and *then* the less-permanent stuff, such as a
garden-hose thread which is then attached to the rather flimsy tubing.

But thanks for the idea as I hadn't thought of the shut-off valve,
which is just what I need.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 23:31:16 UTC

You can get the shut off valve that attaches directly to the 1/2" tubing,

That is an option.
Something, I don't know what, seems to me that I'd prefer the permanence
of the PVC shutoff and *then* the less-permanent stuff, such as a
garden-hose thread which is then attached to the rather flimsy tubing.
But thanks for the idea as I hadn't thought of the shut-off valve,
which is just what I need.

Sounds like a plan! One thing I probably should mention is those glued
pvc sections come apart after being exposed to the weather elements day
after day. You might think it is fine and you have the water pressure
on the pipe, but the valve is shut off and come home from running errand
with the pipes blown apart. We've had to re-glue every section of pvc
pipe that we've ran throughout the yard so we could get a main water
line to the back yard garden and set up the drip irrigation.

Got a call from my neighbor today that one of those sections had come
apart and was producing a geyser in our back yard. He was kind enough
to turn off the water from the source vs me rushing home to turn it off
myself.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-27 04:15:16 UTC

those glued pvc sections come apart after being exposed to the weather
elements day after day.

Hmmm... they're not supposed to.

On a.h.r, we researched what destroys the PVS, and if you paint them,
the UV light doesn't bother them, and there's not much else that will.

Of course, earthquakes and trucks driving on the lawn would break
them - as do lawn mowers and weed whackers, but they are supposed to
last longer that we will.

Still, it's a good idea to paint them. Here's a shot of my recently
repaired pool equipment, for example, where I haven't painted the
new sections I put on last month to fix the leaks.

Loading Image...

Danny D.

2013-06-27 04:18:11 UTC

Post by Danny D.
On a.h.r, we researched what destroys the PVS, and if you paint them,
the UV light doesn't bother them, and there's not much else that will.

More information on PVC which is supposed to last 100 years...

UniBell FAQ on Studies of PVC Pipe Performance Over Time:
http://www.plasticengineeredproducts.com/manufacturers/unibell/faq.htm

The Effects of Sunlight Exposure on PVC Pipe:
http://www.nacopvc.com/c/technical-info--forms/the-effects-of-sunlight-exposure-on-pvc-pipe

Painting of PVC Piping for Ultraviolet Protection:
http://www.lascofittings.com/supportcenter/PaintingPVCPiping.asp

How to Use Acrylic or Latex Paint on PVC:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-acrylic-latex-paint-pvc-25511.html

Oren

2013-06-27 21:29:10 UTC

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 04:15:16 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

those glued pvc sections come apart after being exposed to the weather
elements day after day.

Hmmm... they're not supposed to.

I've had one fail. Fixing 3/4" PVC the end cap blew off. I can only
guess that ~500 gallons of water flooded the back yard that night. It
was still dirt from construction before lawn turf was installed. It
took a couple weeks for the mud hole to dry out.

Lesson learned. With fast set cement, insert the pipe into the
fitting, give it a quarter turn twist and hold for ~ 10-15 seconds.

Works for me and no more fitting failures.

Slow set cement; it is easy for the them to fail.

Danny D.

2013-06-28 00:59:43 UTC

Post by Oren
Lesson learned. With fast set cement, insert the pipe into the
fitting, give it a quarter turn twist and hold for ~ 10-15 seconds.

It's amazing how the glue lubricates it so that the pipe fits on
perfectly, and, yet it wants to pop back out - so I agree with holding
it for a quarter minute or so.

Post by Oren
Slow set cement; it is easy for the them to fail.

Yeah, but we need *that* stuff for fixing holes with just two
couplings and a center-pipe!

Or ... you use it in the four 90s method (which seems like overkill):

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-27 21:48:17 UTC

those glued pvc sections come apart after being exposed to the
weather elements day after day.

Hmmm... they're not supposed to.
On a.h.r, we researched what destroys the PVS, and if you paint them,
the UV light doesn't bother them, and there's not much else that will.
Of course, earthquakes and trucks driving on the lawn would break
them - as do lawn mowers and weed whackers, but they are supposed to
last longer that we will.
Still, it's a good idea to paint them. Here's a shot of my recently
repaired pool equipment, for example, where I haven't painted the
new sections I put on last month to fix the leaks.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13335710/img/13335710.jpg

hmmm paint the pvc pipe where it's connected or all of it? I've never
heard of that before.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Oren

2013-06-27 22:18:37 UTC

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 16:48:17 -0500, "Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl"

Post by Danny D.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13335710/img/13335710.jpg

hmmm paint the pvc pipe where it's connected or all of it? I've never
heard of that before.

Pool pump pipes and rooftop solar panel PVC pipes are painted, as
Danny mentioned.

Prevents UV damage in the desert. Water based latex paint.

If it isn't painted here, it gets buried.

Danny D.

2013-06-28 02:35:01 UTC

Post by Oren
Pool pump pipes and rooftop solar panel PVC pipes are painted, as
Danny mentioned.

As Oren said, any and all white PVC that is sticking out of ground is
typically painted (usually black, but only because it absorbs
heat and is a cheap paint).

For example, here is my pool equipment; only the newly repaired
pipe is not yet painted black:
Loading Image...

As Oren said, you're supposed to use acrylic (or latex) based paints;
but, in my case, I couldn't find any in the house, and, when I asked
pool guys, they said the petroleum is only there while it's wet, and
that they use whatever is on the truck, so, *maybe* it doesn't really
matter:
Loading Image...

Note: For a larger size picture, substitute "img" for "640".

Farm1

2013-06-25 08:39:26 UTC

To add to David's already comprehensive post, here is another online
tutorial about polypipe irrigation;
http://www.irrigationdirect.com/tutorial/irrigation/view/drip-irrigation-basics-and-installation/expert-advice/id/12?

The Daring Dufas

2013-06-25 10:32:56 UTC

Was it chewed up by critters or just been shredded by rough treatment
and exposure to the elements? o_O

TDD

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:26:25 UTC

Post by The Daring Dufas
Was it chewed up by critters or just been shredded by rough treatment
and exposure to the elements?

The funny thing was, no water came out of the thing (it only dripped
a bit at the early connections) so I had figured it wasn't working.

How wrong I was!
Loading Image...

The Daring Dufas

2013-06-25 22:35:22 UTC

Post by The Daring Dufas
Was it chewed up by critters or just been shredded by rough treatment
and exposure to the elements?

I'm not sure what chewed it up.
The whole thing predates me. I've been using it to create compost
from kitchen scraps, until my wife got the bright idea of actually
using the resulting mulch to grow tomatoes.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410495/img/13410495.jpg
The funny thing was, no water came out of the thing (it only dripped
a bit at the early connections) so I had figured it wasn't working.
How wrong I was!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410500/img/13410500.jpg

I wonder if it could have been damage done by a drain bamaged individual
wielding a wild weed eater or a lawless lawnmower? ^_^

TDD

Danny D.

2013-06-25 23:09:00 UTC

Post by The Daring Dufas
I wonder if it could have been damage done by a drain bamaged individual
wielding a wild weed eater or a lawless lawnmower?

Most likely, it was some big fat guy who was composting
kitchen scraps with pick and shovel and rake ... who didn't
realize what was buried under the soil prior to his arrival.

Oren

2013-06-25 23:57:11 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:09:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by The Daring Dufas
I wonder if it could have been damage done by a drain bamaged individual
wielding a wild weed eater or a lawless lawnmower?

Most likely, it was some big fat guy who was composting
kitchen scraps with pick and shovel and rake ... who didn't
realize what was buried under the soil prior to his arrival.

That same guy wears a size 11.5 W shoe :)

A guy trying to help me once split a 3/4" PVC irrigation line with a
shovel. Not me but I had to fix it.

Oren

2013-06-25 23:06:12 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 22:26:25 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by The Daring Dufas
Was it chewed up by critters or just been shredded by rough treatment
and exposure to the elements?

The drip lines used need to be covered with some mulch or buried a few
inches. In the desert here; the tend to crack and leak sooner while
on the soil surface.

Post by Danny D.
The funny thing was, no water came out of the thing (it only dripped
a bit at the early connections) so I had figured it wasn't working.
How wrong I was!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410500/img/13410500.jpg

LOL - turn the valve off at the valve box; unless you need water
elsewhere. You and all the past water leaks make me giggle.

Danny D.

2013-06-26 05:13:52 UTC

Post by Oren
The drip lines used need to be covered

I had not realized this.
No wonder they had been buried.
Thanks for that tidbit.

I have others popping out of the ground scattered about
the yard that I was wondering what they do.

I'll snap a picture in the morning for you.

Danny D.

2013-06-27 04:20:17 UTC

Post by Danny D.
I have others popping out of the ground scattered about
the yard that I was wondering what they do.

These tubes are popping up out of the ground near a buried sprinkler
box. I'm sure they go to the sprinkler system, but I haven't
dug it all up yet to figure out what's not working.
Loading Image...

Oren

2013-06-27 21:36:53 UTC

On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 04:20:17 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
These tubes are popping up out of the ground near a buried sprinkler
box. I'm sure they go to the sprinkler system, but I haven't
dug it all up yet to figure out what's not working.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13419851/img/13419851.jpg

In the desert here the 1/2" poly is ~ 4 inches under ground. Other
regions may be deeper.

Pull on the poly (like pulling on a tree root out). It will lead you
to the connection point or valve box.

YMMV

Danny D.

2013-06-28 02:36:45 UTC

Post by Oren
Pull on the poly (like pulling on a tree root out). It will lead you
to the connection point or valve box.

Well, this was the theory, but, about 30 feet from the valve box,
I ran into a chewed up poly that had no counterpart nearby.

So, I'm pretty sure it's there ... but I have to go mining to find it.

I feel like an archaeologist lately.

Oren

2013-06-25 14:09:59 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 06:55:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

They make a figure "8" plastic piece to use on the end. Poly does in
one hole, bent and passed back through the top loop. This is great
for draining a line to prevent freezing.

<Loading Image...

Post by Danny D.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403754/img/13403754.jpg

>

Compression elbow, compression coupling, compression Tee

<Loading Image...

>

<Loading Image...

<Loading Image...

Post by Danny D.
I've never worked on drip irrigation before, so I picked up
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403764/img/13403764.jpg
At Home Depot, the guy told me that it's normal for the drip lines
to simply push in, but this end seems to be really really stuck.

You have to pull and twist to get the poly out of the insert. A little
hard to do, but the poly will come.

Post by Danny D.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403769/img/13403769.jpg
Would you suggest I simply cut the elbow off and start fresh
by putting a garden-hose connection on a T fitting?
Note: The plants are tomatoes, which are just now sprouting,
so it has to be a gentle irrigation. I think a soaker hose may
be too heavy - but I'm not sure what my options are.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-25 18:45:53 UTC

Post by Oren
On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 06:55:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

They make a figure "8" plastic piece to use on the end. Poly does in
one hole, bent and passed back through the top loop. This is great
for draining a line to prevent freezing.
<http://www.sprinklertalk.com/Sprinkler_School/images/img_crimp_hose.jpg>

Post by Danny D.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13403754/img/13403754.jpg

That is an insert for the 3/4 PVC. The poly is pushed in. It can be
pulled out, but can be a little difficult. Twist and pull. Twist and
pull. (remember those straw Chinese finger locks as a kid - you put
fingers in each end and would not pull out :-)
A compression fitting. There is a bevel sleeve (?) inside that grabs
the poly - compression insert
<http://www.gardendrip.org/images/access_images/12MalePVC700PolyTubingInsert.jpg>
Compression elbow, compression coupling, compression Tee
<http://www.dripking.com/views/images/uploads/_9fdc64c5.jpg>
<http://www.dripirrigation.com/system/partphotos/492/tdsphoto/LF002L.jpg?1291332194>
<http://www.irrigationdirect.com/media/oldImages/Drip-Compression-Tee-620-Tubing-T620-Installed-for-Rain-Drip.jpg>

You have to pull and twist to get the poly out of the insert. A little
hard to do, but the poly will come.

I use that same 1/2 & 1/4 tubing drip irrigation for my garden and flower
beds. Maybe I'm just too simple at it, but if something gets tore up, I
just cut that part of the tubing out, and insert a new piece of tubing using
the right connectors.
I have a lot of my garden in big planters and even some hanging planters,
and all of them have 1/4 inch dripper lines going to each planter that has
an adjustable sprinkler head. It's all connected to a timer and everything
gets watered automatically.

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:11:07 UTC

if something gets tore up, I just cut that part of the tubing out,
and insert a new piece of tubing using the right connectors.

Well, this 3/4" and 1/4" irrigation plastic is all torn up (I'm not sure why):
Loading Image...

So, I'd like to start fresh (especially as it's easier to build than
to repair), particularly since I have never worked with the stuff
before.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 16:14:15 UTC

if something gets tore up, I just cut that part of the tubing out,
and insert a new piece of tubing using the right connectors.

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410428/img/13410428.jpg
So, I'd like to start fresh (especially as it's easier to build than
to repair), particularly since I have never worked with the stuff
before.

Every spring when I turn on the watering system again, I go through to see
what needs to be replaced, and what is still working well. I guess after
setting this up originally, I'm just so used to repairing something that
wears out I just do it automatically.

One thing about that tubing is that it tends to wear out at the point that
you have a dripper or plug, so I've figured out that I just have to cut off
about a 1/2 inch where it was connected by worn out and re-attach the
original dripper.

btw, that turbing looks like it was damaged by a shovel. I'd probably just
cut out the damaged section and connect the 2 pcs with a straight pronged
connector if doing that wouldn't make it so the sprinkler on the other end
too short.

Good luck on your new set-up!

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-26 23:10:35 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
btw, that turbing looks like it was damaged by a shovel.

Do not tell my wife that!

She'll kill me.

Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl

2013-06-26 23:31:45 UTC

Post by Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl
btw, that turbing looks like it was damaged by a shovel.

Do not tell my wife that!
She'll kill me.

OK mums the word! :-x

--
Natural Girl //(*<*)\\

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:16:13 UTC

Post by Oren
They make a figure "8" plastic piece to use on the end. Poly does in
one hole, bent and passed back through the top loop. This is great
for draining a line to prevent freezing.

Hi Oren,
Thank you very much for that drawing as I see that whomever it was who
originally set up the tubing actually made what appears to be a crude
version of a "poor man's figure 8" endloop using electrical tape:

Loading Image...

Oren

2013-06-25 22:38:06 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 22:16:13 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
They make a figure "8" plastic piece to use on the end. Poly does in
one hole, bent and passed back through the top loop. This is great
for draining a line to prevent freezing.

Hi Oren,
Thank you very much for that drawing as I see that whomever it was who
originally set up the tubing actually made what appears to be a crude
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410465/img/13410465.jpg

Both methods will work. If a pipe breaks, tape will work until a
repair is made.

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:19:56 UTC

Post by Oren
That is an insert for the 3/4 PVC. The poly is pushed in. It can be
pulled out, but can be a little difficult. Twist and pull. Twist and
pull.

You weren't kidding it was hard to pull out (the Chinese finger lock
description is apropos). I had to pull hard, with pliers:

Loading Image...

Of course, I forgot to think ahead; so, um .... I now have a brand
new 80psi leak in my plumbing!

Loading Image...

Oren

2013-06-25 22:44:12 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 22:19:56 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
That is an insert for the 3/4 PVC. The poly is pushed in. It can be
pulled out, but can be a little difficult. Twist and pull. Twist and
pull.

You weren't kidding it was hard to pull out (the Chinese finger lock
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410474/img/13410474.jpg
Of course, I forgot to think ahead; so, um .... I now have a brand
new 80psi leak in my plumbing!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410476/img/13410476.jpg

Put a short piece (12" of so) of old poly in the insert and use the
tape or "figure 8" until you get ready for new poly. Remove it for
the new poly. That will stop the flooding for now.

Honestly, I've never seen one of the compression fittings leak.

Danny D.

2013-06-25 23:36:46 UTC

Post by Oren
Put a short piece (12" of so) of old poly in the insert and use the
tape or "figure 8" until you get ready for new poly. Remove it for
the new poly. That will stop the flooding for now.

That seems to be a looser fit than a normal PVC pipe dry fit; but
with lots of "glue", I think it might work.

Is it possible to pry out that green endcap & just place the slip
fitting over the remaining white part? (Or do I need to cut off
the entire elbow and start again with the slip:slip coupling)?

Oren

2013-06-26 00:53:30 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:36:46 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Hi Oren,
Ah, that's a good idea (I already have the raw materials for that!).
As for a more permanent fix, what do you think about me putting
one of these 3/4" slip-to-MHT (male hose thread?) fittings directly
onto the white-and-green part sticking out of the existing PVC elbow?
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410696/img/13410696.jpg
That seems to be a looser fit than a normal PVC pipe dry fit; but
with lots of "glue", I think it might work.
Is it possible to pry out that green endcap & just place the slip
fitting over the remaining white part? (Or do I need to cut off
the entire elbow and start again with the slip:slip coupling)?

See my post on a drip line manifold (2).

Danny D.

2013-06-25 22:22:20 UTC

Post by Oren
You have to pull and twist to get the poly out of the insert. A little
hard to do, but the poly will come.

Hi Oren,
Can I shove it back in?

At least temporarily?

To stop the leak?

Or is it a one-time-only compression fitting?

Loading Image...

Guv Bob

2013-06-25 22:29:47 UTC

Post by Oren
You have to pull and twist to get the poly out of the insert. A little
hard to do, but the poly will come.

Hi Oren,
Can I shove it back in?
At least temporarily?
To stop the leak?
Or is it a one-time-only compression fitting?
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410486/img/13410486.jpg

<interruption>
Hi Danny, thanks for posting the great photos! Are you taking the photos and sending from your phone?
</interruption>

Danny D.

2013-06-25 23:13:36 UTC

Post by Guv Bob
thanks for posting the great photos!

Thanks for noticing. It's usually only Oren who appreciates
the softer, more artistic side of my OCD personality :)

Oren

2013-06-25 23:42:24 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:13:36 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Guv Bob
thanks for posting the great photos!

Thanks for noticing. It's usually only Oren who appreciates
the softer, more artistic side of my OCD personality :)

I'm still tinkering with the freeware you suggested. Maybe you missed
it when I posted about removing rust from cast iron.

...
DIY photo made using freeware suggested by Danny D.

<Loading Image...

Danny D.

2013-06-26 05:19:39 UTC

Maybe you missed it when I posted about removing rust
from cast iron.
<http://oi33.tinypic.com/rmnwo5.jpg>

Wow. Nice job! I did miss that. I don't know what
"seasoning" is (I'll have to look up the thread); but
wow. It looks great! (And it started off looking horrid.)

I like the way you assembled the photos (with the white border).

Did you use Paint.NET freeware on Windows for the DIY photo?

PS: I'm a Windows/Linux freeware junkie; have been a freeware
addict for decades; so, I pretty much should know most of the
good stuff. The only thing you ever need to buy is MS Office;
and even then, only to be 100% compatible with the proletariat
who use Windows exclusively. :)

Oren

2013-06-26 13:21:09 UTC

On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 05:19:39 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Maybe you missed it when I posted about removing rust
from cast iron.
<http://oi33.tinypic.com/rmnwo5.jpg>

Wow. Nice job! I did miss that. I don't know what
"seasoning" is (I'll have to look up the thread); but
wow. It looks great! (And it started off looking horrid.)

<http://www.southernplate.com/2009/02/how-to-season-a-cast-iron-skillet.html>

Post by Danny D.
I like the way you assembled the photos (with the white border).
Did you use Paint.NET freeware on Windows for the DIY photo?

Yes and also IrfanView.

Post by Danny D.
PS: I'm a Windows/Linux freeware junkie; have been a freeware
addict for decades; so, I pretty much should know most of the
good stuff. The only thing you ever need to buy is MS Office;
and even then, only to be 100% compatible with the proletariat
who use Windows exclusively. :)

I use Open Office (free) Compatible with MS Office documents and
others.

<http://www.openoffice.org/>

Danny D.

2013-06-26 13:56:19 UTC

Post by Oren
I use Open Office (free) Compatible with MS Office documents and
others.

Not really. But that's for another group to discuss
alt.comp.freeware

Oren

2013-06-25 22:35:09 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 22:22:20 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Oren
You have to pull and twist to get the poly out of the insert. A little
hard to do, but the poly will come.

Hi Oren,
Can I shove it back in?
At least temporarily?
To stop the leak?
Or is it a one-time-only compression fitting?
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410486/img/13410486.jpg

I've reused the insert fittings. It will need new poly pipe or it
will most likely leak.

Danny D.

2013-06-25 23:59:16 UTC

Post by Oren
It will need new poly pipe

I will put all new "stuff" on there, as that's the only way
I'll know how it is put together anyway.

What I *think* I'll do is replicate what "was" on the other
elbow (of the other nearby tomato plot), which is a MHT garden-hose
fitting (which had a soaker hose on it until the wife
ripped it off in the mistaken believe that I put it there and
that it was a thread, somehow, to the baby tomato plants):

Loading Image...

Oren

2013-06-26 01:51:51 UTC

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 23:59:16 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Post by Danny D.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/13410718/img/13410718.jpg

Get use to it. Emotion and Logic cross paths.

Fixed a honey do project the other day. A drippin' RO sink faucet.

Had her watch a 2 minute video to show her what it needs. Then tells
me I'm doing it wrong because (the guy has a new facet for a demo).
Said I needed to remove the base.

Took me all of ten minutes. Guess who won that one...

It gets better; well after menopause, maybe! Maybe not :)

<http://www.amazon.com/books/dp/1594036756>

Danny D.

2013-06-26 05:34:45 UTC